Watch Glossary and Terms with Images

Niello paste is applied over incised gold or silver then fired in the enamellist;s furnace. Excess niello is filed off and the su***ce smoothed. Polished niello cases were fashionable shortly before wristwatches were introduced.O ImagesObservatory chronometerA chronometer which has received an official rating certificate from an observatory.Official rating certificateA document, issued by an Observatory or an official ratings bureau, that certifies the quality of a watch which has proven, in trials, to meet with a given standard. Only a watch that has received an official rating certificate can be called a chronometer.Oil sinkA cavity in bearings for a drop of oil.Oscillating weight (Rotor)In a self-winding movement, a heavy metal disc that turns freely in both directions to wind the mainspring.OscillationWhen a pendulum or balance oscillates it moves between two extreme positions (A; and A;;). The movement from one of these positions to the other and back equals one oscillation. Marine chronometers with mechanical movements are mounted on gimbals so that they remain in the horizontal position is necessary for their precision.Middle (of watch-case)Middle part of the case, in which the movement is fitted.MovementAssembly consisting of the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock: the winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement, the regulating elements. "Anatomically", the movement consists of the "ébauche", the regulating elements and the other components.N ImagesNickel silver (German silver)A silver-white alloy of copper, nickel and zinc developed in France circa 1820 by Maillot and Chorier from whom it takes its name.NielloAn enamel-like alloy of lead, copper, silver, sulphur and sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride).

Watch Glossary and Terms with Images

It also controls the movement of the wound gears.LigneTraditional unit of measurement used to measure the diameter of watch movements.LugA thin metal rod fixed between the case horns for attaching the watch strap. 1.Lug 2.Case horns 3.Case 4.Watch strapLuminous paintSelf-illuminating paint that is put on the hands and markers to read the time in low light situations.M ImagesMain PlateBase plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted (part of the "ébauche").MainspringThe driving spring of a watch or clock, contained in the barrel. Manufacture d'horlogerieFrench term for a watch factory which itself produces the components (particularly the "ébauches") needed for the manufacture of its products (watches, alarm and desk clocks, etc).Marine ChronometerHighly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper enclosed in a box (hence the term box chronometer), used for determining the longitude on board ship.The unit of weight for precious stones. One karat equals 0.20 grams.KarruselA device similar to the tourbillon, the difference being that the cage is driven by the third wheel. Invented by Bonnicksen, a Danish watchmaker established in London.L ImagesLeafThe tooth on a pinion.LeverPart of a watch or clock escapement, made in steel or brass. The lever, whose form suggests a ship;s anchor, has a dual function: it transmits energy from the spring via the wheels to the balance in order to maintain its oscillations.

Watch Glossary and Terms with Images

InvarA steel-nickel alloy whose low coefficient of expansion was discovered by Charles Edouard Guillaume. Invar (abbreviation of invariable) belongs to the Elinvar family of metals which encompasses ferronickel alloys whose thermoplastic coefficient is a negligible -10°C to +30°C. These alloys are used to make compensation balances for watches.IsochronismEqual periods of time. A watch's ability to maintain its rate as the mainspring unwinds.J ImagesJewelBearing, endstone or pallet used for reducing friction. Generally made of synthetic material, except for the precious or semi-precious stones (ruby, sapphire, garnet) which are sometimes used in "de luxe" watches.JewelsThe international term for the jewels (rubies) in a watch movement that are used as bearings for pivots to reduce friction. The movement of a quality watch has between 15 and 21 jewels.Jumping hourA means of display in which the hour, shown through an aperture, instantly changes every 60 minutes.K ImagesKaratThe unit of measurement of the purity of a gold alloy. A 1k alloy contains 1/24th of its weight in pure gold. An 18k alloy is 18/24th pure gold. Pure gold is 24k.GildThe case but also the movement;s plate and bridges can be gilded.Glass, CrystalThin plate of glass or transparent synthetic material, for protecting the dials of watches, clocks, etc.GuillocheDecoration found on the dials of high-end watches.H ImagesHackingA feature that stops the second hand when the stem is pulled out as far as it will go. This allows you to set the exact time.HandIndicator, usually made of a thin, light piece of metal, very variable in form, which moves over a graduated dial or scale. Watches usually have three hands showing the hours, minutes and seconds.HorologyScience of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces.I ImagesImpulseMovement transmitted by a mechanical part. In a lever escapement, the impulse occurs via the impulse su***ce of the wheel tooth and the pallet.IndicatorA watch;s indicators are its dial and hands.

Watch Glossary and Terms with Images

F ImagesFactory, worksIn the Swiss watch industry, the term manufacture is used of a factory in which watches are manufactured almost completely, as distinct from an "atelier de terminage", which is concerned only with assembling, timing, fitting the hands and casing.Fly-back HandIn a chronograph with analogue display, an additional centre seconds-hand which can remain superposed on the other one as it moves, can be stopped independently and then made to "fly back" so as to catch up with the other hand, can be stopped and reset to zero together with the other hand. In chronographs with numerical display, a "function" having the same effect.Full calendar watchShows the date, the day of the week, the month and moon phases (new and full moons separated by the first and last quarters).G ImagesGasketMost water-resistant watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the case back, crystal and crown from water. Gaskets need to be checked every couple of years to maintain water resistance.It generally includes the following operations: receipt, inspection and stocking of the "ébauche", the regulating elements and the other parts of the movement and of the make-up; assembling; springing and timing; fitting the dial and hands; casing; final inspection before packing and dispatching.EtablisseurFrench term for a watch factory which is engaged only in assembling watches, without itself producing the components, which it buys from specialist suppliers.

Wenger LED Nomad

Despite the unknowns, it's an attractive watches online and I hope we can get one for review. A quick internet search finds it for sale at around $400 USD. That's pretty good, though for that price I'd prefer to get a sapphire crystal.We're big fans of outdoor and analog-digital watches, and this new Wenger model scratches both itches. It's a men's quartz shoes online, with an old-school LED digital display beneath the analog hands, adding a compass to the more usual repotoire of functionality. Available on bracelet (model 70436) or red-stitched black silicone strap (70430), this one looks pretty good:316L brushed-finish stainless steel case, 43mm across, 22mm lugs.Water resistant to 100m (330ft).Mineral glass crystal.Swiss quartz movement.Non-screw-down crown.Bracelet version is 5-link, alternating brushed and polished, with deployant buckle.Digital portion has a digital compass, day/date/month, second time zone.The specifications leave some questions unanswered - are the hands driven by the movement, or set separately? Is the analog portion illuminated, lumed, both or none? Does it have a low-battery indicator? Can you turn off the LEDs for a cleaner face? (Almost certainly considering the power consumption of LEDs).

Nivrel Chronograph Replique II

Movement specifications:17 jewels.Low-beat (18000 vph).42 hour power reserve.Poised balance.Cam-switched design, which predated the column wheel chronograph.Hit the break for more.The combination of red center hand, blued time hands, and blue/yellow/white on the dial struck me as quite compelling. It's retro, but attractive and functional.It's also available as a black dial, but doesn't work quite as well in my opinion.List price isn't given, but I'd estimate it to be in the five to ten thousand dollar range.The Nivrel Chronograph Replique II is a handwind mechanical chronograph with a vintage look and gift for man movement to match. It's built around the Landeron 248, a well-regarded movement introduced in 1955. This version is a limited edition of only 50 pieces, so most of us will never see one in person, unfortunately. Although the look is retro, web gift updated it with a modern sapphire crystal and rates the result to 50m (165ft). It's 42 by 16mm, and sports a Louisiana alligator strap. Functions include subseconds and 45-minute chronograph, but no date.

Review of the Orbita Tourbillon Watch Winder

The one on the left tells you how many times the luxury gift has been turned, and resets itself automatically at midnight. The LED on the right is actually a highly accurate quartz clock which makes perfect sense as it allows you to calibrate your less accurate automatic watch as you're putting it on in the morning. Bright blue LEDs are soldered below the circuit boards and flash in configurable patterns to draw even more attention to this modern piece of functional industrial art.View the Orbita Tourbillon photo gallery.The Orbita Tourbillon is the Porsche of watch winders. It's modern, sleek, and it ain't cheap. But for the enthusiast who wants the best for his ub gift, the Orbita will keep them running with both style and precision.The Orbita Tourbillon looks a little like a bomb from a Die Hard movie with its exposed circuitry and extremely bright LEDs. The chassis is made from four 10mm thick pieces of glass joined together by clear epoxy. Inside, three circuit boards are screwed in place and support two fantastically bright LEDs, and two stainless steel rollers. On top of the rollers rests the barrels inside of which your well wound and precisely rotated automatic web gift are tucked, wrapped snuggly around self-conforming foam cushions. Although the barrels are stainless steel, they are lined with soft and gentle plastic which won't scratch your steel, gold, or platinum bracelets, and the rollers have rubber gaskets for securely and quietly gripping and turning the barrels.Each circuit board contains two LED readouts.

Sjoo Sandstrom Swedish Night World Timer

I have to admit that this could actually be better combo that my previous favorite, the Omega X-33. A flip-up design is less accessible, but yields more display area and allows the use of a gorgeous mechanical movement. I'm hoping to see one of these in person and have sent them an email about a review model; we can hope!The only US storefront listed is in New York, but a quick internet search finds them for sale for about, ulp, $6,000. Ouch.You can see more pictures on their Facebook page (an emerging trend for buy ugg makers to have).At first glance, the watch on the right is a conservatively styled dressy sale uggs with a clean, uncluttered face. A closer look and you might wonder what the pushers are for, as it appears to lack complications. Via, say hello to a brand we've never heard of before, Sjoo Sandstrom. The brand is from Stockholm Sweden, and the ugg pictured is the Chronolink Swedish Night. The really interesting part is hidden from sight: the Chronolink is actually two watches on one. On the front, there's an ultra-thin Swiss mechanical handwind movement, and underneath there's a sophisticated quartz digital.As you might expect, this combination is very unusual and quite compelling. I quite like the idea of elegance and function. Here's the listed specs:Designed for frequent travelers who change timezones often.40mm stainless steel case with titanium caseback for increased alarm volume.Luminous insets on the handsLeather strap or stainless steel bracelet both available.Mechanical movement: SS G2, 21,600 vph, 17 jewels, ultra-thin handwind.Digital portion has local time in 25 cities around the world, and was developed in cooperation with Scandanavian Airline Systems. All dot-matrix display with no glyphs or codes, which should help with using it while jetlagged.Alarm, timers and 'the possibility to store important PIN codes.' That's novel.Of course, the digital also has day, week, month and year.Water resistant to 50m (165ft).Available in black, white, silver, blue, yellow, brown or orange. Special orders available in custom colors.Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.Unusually, it's rated to -20/+70C, up to 5000G and acceleration from 0 to 300km/h in 0.2 seconds. I won't translate those into English units as these are specifications for the Swedish defense industry and therefore it is quite robust. This one should survive just about anything. More after the break.

Casio brings G

The G-Shock Mini makes our G-Shocktoughness and technology a highly sought-after women’s fashionaccessory." All three models will include conventional features like an alarm, 100m water resistance, auto backlight, world time, and a chronograph. The G-Shock Mini will be available nationwide at department stores and carries a $95 MSRP. Read on for a link to the press release and additional pictures. Casio has announced it is bringing the popular G-Shock Mini line to the USA. These are popular G-Shock styles designed to find a home with women buyers. They are available in a wide selection of "feminine" colors and sizes that span three models which are probably very familiar if you know the current G-Shock line.Shigenori Itoh, the vice president of Casio better ugg, was quoted in the press release saying, "We are thrilled to offer fashionable water and shock resistant the best ugg for chic active women everywhere...